The bonkers bow seems to have survived to full draw. The shape of the stave has lent itself to rather narrow stiff tips reminiscent of the levers on a Mollegabet style bow. There is some ugly deflex near the tips, but at the lower one I can't risk heat straightening it because that's where the glued back patch is.
I'll probably leave the upper tip alone an see how it shoots. The very narrow grip gives a clean arrow fight.
In response to the question on patching, here's 2 pics of the finished belly patch which was a dead flat join (shows in the 2nd patch pic) just to build up a thin point in the stave. Well I call it a stave, but it was just an off-cut from the edge of a half log that looked only fit for firewood.
The patch also helped to brace across a rather large knot. Top right of the pic you can also see a plugged knot.
I've done the nocks very simply, sometimes you'll hear "don't cut into the back of the bow" this is because it will weaken it. Like all these things, it's a good rule of thumb, but done sensibly on a narrow deep tip it's fine, you can see those tips aren't going to be flexing at all.
The video shows a surprisingly good tiller... well it surprised me! It's pulling a bit over 45# at 28" on a lowish brace height, as I used a string I had lying about. The arrow pass is well above the centre line and the grip about centred on the true centre of the bow.
The longbow I've been working on has it's horn nocks done and will get tested this afternoon, or tomorrow morning, having had a while for the heat treated belly to settle down.
Update:- Ive tried the longbow at low brace up to 50# at about 26" so I'm fairly confident it's gained a good few pounds. I won't take it to full draw until I've gone over it carefully smoothing and inspecting and finishing a bit more, that'll be tomorrow when it will also have had another day to re-acclimatise.